March 11 Santiago De Compostella 

We are staying in a hotel which is right across the square from the Santigao De Compostella cathedral.  It was a Benedictine monks quarters but has since been converted into a hotel.  However is very original old stone floors and everything however it is really cold.  I can only imagine how cold it was when the monks were here as the windows have been replaced and there are lots of modern conveniences which have been incorporated.  

We joined a very noisy breakfast room this morning but there was lots of coffee to be had so after a week of suffering through 1.5 oz very bitter little shots of coffee or 4 oz shots of warm milk and with 1.5 oz of very bitter coffee it was great.  I was on vacuum and got about 4 cups of regular North American coffee.

After breakfast the three of us wandered across the plaza to visit the cathedral. It is absolutely amazing. The incredible detailed stone work every where you look.  The incredibly ornate alters.  The gold leaf on so many of the statues and alters is just mind boggling.  It isn't really well marked but there is a place where you can go down this really narrow passageway to look through a glass window to see the casket containing the bones of the apostle St James.  It was St James who spread the Christian faith to Spain and it was only fitting that he would be buried here.  

After our tour of the Cathedral we went next door and visited the Museum of the Pilgrims.  It was excellently presented.  They talked about a lot of the different pilgrimages from different faiths as well as presenting a history of Santiago de Compostella and how the cathedral got built.  There was a lot of art which had been done through the ages. 

It was pouring rain so we didn't wander too far before we found a nice restaurant to have lunch in.  It was warm and after lunch we all felt like having a nap so we headed back to the hotel.

On the way back to the hotel Judy and I picked up a few souvenirs in a couple of the local junk shops. 

I thought I would post a couple of photos of my pilgrimage documentation just so that there is no doubt as to the authenticity of this. 

We will have our usual picnic supper here in the hotel tonight and tomorrow Ken and Judy will fly to Madrid and I am transferring to an airport hotel.  All three of us are on the same flight back to the US on Monday.

Terry        

 

March 10 2023  Teo to Santiago De Compostella

After a very nice breakfast in the hotel we were on our way about 9:15 am, with 13.5 kms to go.  The trail ran right between the two buildings of the hotel so we didn't have far to go to get on the trail and it was a steep down hill for quite a way.  When you are walking down steep slopes it puts quite a strain on your quads and you risk sliding out in loose gravel.  The sky was quite overcast and foreboding but at least it wasn't raining and the wind which was howling down at us was at our backs.  I could not have imagined hiking into it. 

When we were about 6 kms out we were at the outskirts of Santiago de Compostella.  Ken was still one stamp short for his passport as he had forgotten to get a stamp at one of the hotels.  It was time for a coffee and so we stopped in an Irish Pub where Ken got his final stamp.  Maybe it was too early in the season but all the churches have been closed so finding stamps has been pretty much restricted to hotels and restaurants.

The last couple of kilometers were though downtown Santiago de Compstella and the signage pretty much disappeared.  Fortunately Ken had his AllTrails maps and he lead through the tiny lanes which is downtown and the huge interconnecting plazas which form the area around the Cathedral of Santiago. 

We checked into the hotel and headed off to the pilgrim's office to get our certificates of completion. It was pretty slick you entered your name address and  where you started on a computer terminal, a clerk printed your certificate out and then you paid at the check out till 5 euros for the certificate and 2 euros for the mailing tube. Done in a matter of a few minutes.  

As it was about 2:00 we needed to find a place to eat before everything closed for siesta.  Luckily there was a place right at hand where we sat down to eat our celebratory lunch.  The menu of the day was a lamb dish which the waitress highly recommended and it was great.  

After lunch Judy wanted to head straight back to the hotel as her ankle is totally done. Ken and I went off to the market to pick up some stuff for our evening picnic.  On the way we noticed that the main cathedral was open so we went in.  Wow is it ever something.  It is really a marvel.  Huge arched ceiling with a unbelievably elaborate gold leaf alter in the center.  

It has been quite an experience hiking the Camino.  The blustery weather has been a real challenge but the walking has been very stimulating.  Out of the 100 kms that we walked I don't think there was more than 5 or 6 which was down busy roads.  All of the rest was down either dedicated hiking trails or back alleys and tiny lanes.  

I have a couple of days here in Santiago before flying home on Monday morning so it will be interesting to see the city. 

Terry

 

 

March 9 2023 Padron to Hotel Francos Teo

Today was a short day with only about 10 kms,  This was because we were in a hotel which was  about 3 kms north of the town yesterday.  I was certainly glad to have a shorter day after yesterday and when we stepped out the door this morning we were faced with more of the same kind of driving rain as we had all day yesterday.  I couldn't help thinking" If I were at home I wouldn't even think about going out, little lone setting out for a 10 kms walk".   But here we were headed down a busy road trucks flying by drenching you with spray.   Not only that but there  were thunder storms in the forecast lasting until around 1:00 pm.  

We were off the busy road soon enough and walking down narrow little winding lanes with no traffic.  I have been totally amazed at how many little lanes there are and how well maintained the entire Camino route is.  Zero garbage, great signage along the way,  all the beautiful blue and yellow tiles with the clam shell and the arrow as well as the concrete mileage markers.  Then we came to a construction site where the work was being done and it was quite a task picking our way through it.  So yes a lot of work is put into the Camino route.   

At the 3 kms mark we came to a café across from a cathedral.  The cathedral was closed but the café was open so we went in to get out of the rain.  When we came out 30 minutes later the rain had stopped.  Yahoo!  

A couple of kms further down the road the sun broke through and even though it looked pretty black off to the west the sun was shining on us.  It wasn't far to the hotel where we are staying and we rolled in at about 11:30 just as lunch was starting so we sat down and had a great lunch.  While we were there our luggage arrived.  The three Spanish pilgrims who have been on the same itinerary as us rolled in.  They we continuing on to Santiago de Compostella today as it is only 13 kms out.  

The hotel is a tiny little place with only 3-4 rooms but it is very deluxe so I am more than happy to be staying here.  

Looks like the weather has changed and even though the forecast is for rain tomorrow it is only trace amount so it should be a great day.  

Terry

 

March 8 2023 Caldas De Reis to Padron

To call today anything less than a slog would be a gross under call.  In fact it was a way more than a simple slog it was more of an endurance test.  How long can you hold your breath under water?  When we left the hotel this morning at about 8:30 this morning it was pouring rain.  And I mean pouring rain.  The Weather Network had it at 0.3 inches per hour which is 7.2 inches per day.  Add to this there was a 15-25 mph wind.   Yes it wasn't blowing this hard all the time nor was it pouring this hard all the time however there would be a wave of rain sweep in coupled with much stronger winds.  The only good part was that the wind was out of the south west and we were headed almost directly north.  When  you had to make a left or right the wind and rain nearly cut you in half.

At the 6 kms point we stopped for lunch which turned out to be a beer.  As we drank our beer we watched the pilgrims dragging themselves in looking like drowned rats.  I suppose we looked about the same. The weather radar showed the rain moving off about 12:00 so an other hour or so but it never did even though we kept saying " I think it looks lighter off to the west"

By the time we got to the hotel about 2:30 I was totally soaked.  The rain had pernitrated the cheap nylon rain shell on my day pack, I had sweated my clothes dripping wet inside my rain coat and pants.  My feet were the only dry thing thanks to the hiking boots David A had fixed me up with at REI.  Thanks David!

We hurried down to the hotel restaurant to catch last call for lunch as supper would not be until 8:00 pm and we doubted we would be able to stay up that late.  Lunch was definitely the highlight of the day.   It was a hearty bowl of beef stew for first course, fried pork slices with French fries and a salad for second course and a huge slice of cake for desert.  There was also two bottles of wine on the table and beer was served with first course.  A great finish to the day.

The Camino markers count the distance to Santiago de Compostella down.  We are currently at marker 23 kms.  so a couple of shorter days.  Although more rain is forecast.  

Terry 

 

March 7 2023 Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis

Today  was the longest walk of the tour at 22 kms  So we were up early and down to breakfast at 7:30 am.  Not only was it the longest day but there was also the downtown area of Pontevedra and the Pontevedra cathedral to visit.  The Pontevedra cathedral may not be the largest but it is very beautiful with a lot of very detailed alters and stations. Beside the cathedral is the monastery with its own cathedral which is just a beautiful.  

After we had toured the downtown we headed down the trail. There was a lot of rain showers in the area and as soon as we stopped and put on rain coats it would stop raining and as soon as we took the rain coats off it would start again.  It was too humid to just leave the rain coats on as a person was sweating almost right away.  Then the clouds would part and tease us with a few rays of sun before another shower would send us back to putting on rain coats.  

The highlight of the day however occurred as we came up to this little stone chapel beside the trail. When we entered it appeared to be empty but a monk dressed in white popped up from behind the alter and came over and greeted us.  He was just the friendliest character and we had a great chat with him. he had been there just one month and was still learning his role. He informed us the the chapel had been first constructed in 1000 ad and rebuilt to its present form in 1600.  Brother Carlos then offered the pilgrims prayer to Ken, Judy and I.  It was very nice  and some how I really did feel blessed.

At about the 16 mks mark my left foot was starting to feel a hot spot so we stopped and on Ken's advise I changed my socks.  I was surprised at how wet may socks were from perspiration.  It was a great move as my feet felt better almost instantly.

The hotel is right across from the supper market so Ken and I ducked in there and grabbed some stuff for our evening meal or picnic as we have been calling it.

Tomorrow is the second longest day of the tour at 18 kms however the forecast has gone from scattered showers to heavy rain all day.  We are headed up to Padron. The hotel is about 1.5 kms out of the town so it looks like we eat out tomorrow evening.   

Terry 

 

 

March 6, 2023  Arcade to Pontevedra

Today was spectacular!  When we got up the sky was dark and foreboding.   Dark clouds were hanging on all of the surrounding hill tops and threatening to roll down and soak us with rain.  It wasn't raining and the temperature was quite nice at around 14 C.   So the three of us headed off at around 9:30 am.

 It wasn't long until we came to a narrow one lane bridge across some tidal flats. It was quite long and quite narrow so meeting on coming cars meant that you had to flatten against the railing.  On the far side we climbed through some very old homes which were clinging to the side of the hill overlooking the estuary.  It was really steep but a really interesting spot.    

The trail  had now left the settlement of Arcade and was through some very rugged country side with a lot of very steep up and down pitches.  It was a very interesting hike as the trail had a lot of twists and turns and you never knew what was around the next bend.   There was one really interesting section of about 1 km in length where the trail was nothing but exposed boulders. Carved into the boulders were grooves where the cart wheels had run for hundreds of years.  If you look at the picture you can easily see cart wheel grooves. 

After we left the section of boulders we came to a place where a huge new freeway is being constructed.  They had carved a huge notch in the hill which had to be 70 meters deep 350 meters long  for the new freeway.  I guess it was the modern equivalent to the ancient cart wheel grooves.  

Along the way we talked to a young lady from Finland who is working in Portugal but is here doing a Camino.  Later on we caught up to three fellows we had seen at our hotel the night before.  They are all from Spain and are doing a Camino together.  We stopped and talked to them for quite a while.  It looks like they are on the same schedule as we are.  

By  11:00 am the clouds had been scared off by the sun and it had gotten down right warm.  All the jackets were in the back packs as we strolled into town around 1:30 pm. What a beautiful 12 kms walk.

Terry 

 

March 5 2023 Redondela to Arcade

It looks like we have run out of the sunny weather.  The forecast for the next week is rain.  However it isn't a pouring rain but more of a light mist.  There are a few drops but most of the precipitation is the mist which is barely enough to keep the pavement wet.  As result the walking is really quite pleasant.  

 My hotel room was an attic room which had skylight on one of the sloped walls.  When I opened the roller shade there wasn't any moisture on the glass but within 15 minutes there were quite a few drops.  So I put on my rain coat and put my fleece into my day pack.  

The three of us headed over to the café where breakfast was and had a croissant, a coffee and juice for breakfast and then headed back to the room to pick up our day packs.  As we only had a 8 kms walk today so Ken said lets not leave until 9:30 so I was little surprised when he called to say lets go just after 9:00.  

As soon as we started off hotel the route took us up some really steep and winding little lanes.  It was very interesting to see the street with small shops on the main floor and two up stories of apartments.  They ranged from quite modern buildings to buildings which were probably a couple hundred years old.  

Once we were out of town the path was very steep and though very pretty woods.  Towards the summit we came to a beautiful stone fountain where we stopped to have a drink of the cool water and enjoy the view of the valley below.  Another hundred meters and we were at the summit and it was down hill into town.  

As it was a very short day we arrived very early into town and the hotel was not yet ready for check in so we went down town and had a very nice lunch and a couple of beers.  Food and drinks are very inexpensive here.  A beer or a serving of wine is only 2 Euros and a nice meal is 6-9 euros.  Lunch for the three of us including three beers was only 25 euros.  As supper does not start until 8:00 pm  we have been buying bread cheese and ham and a bottle of wine for our supper which we eat in the hotel.  The total cost for our supper being only around 8 euros.

I had been very concerned about navigation on this trip.   However there are sign posts and the blue clam shell pointers everywhere.  

Tomorrow is 12 kms to the town of Pontevedra.

Terry 

f

March 4 2023 Vigo to Redondela

This morning we dropped our luggage off at the desk in the lobby of the hotel and headed off to breakfast.  After breakfast we got our Camino passports stamped, checked out of the hotel and we were off.  Ken had loaded the Camino route into his Garmin so we were following his Garmin until we realized that there were yellow arrows sprayed on the road and they followed the route.  It was just like being on Cycle America, follow the arrows.  

The first few kms were through the city of Vigo and it was quite interesting as the scene changed from old downtown to modern downtown to suburbs to country.  Once we got out of the city the first of the Camino posts and signs started to appear.  The route was very easy to follow as there was a sign or post on every corner.  The path also changed from paved to a dirt path which wound through a thickly wooded area high above the surrounding country side.  It couldn't have been a more pleasant walk. The sky was pure blue and the temperature was about 62F with rays of sun shining through the trees.  

We stopped a couple of times to sit on the benches which were located at particularly nice spots with tremendous views.  We also stopped at some of the water fountains to have a drink of the cool spring water.  

Before we knew it we had reached our destination and there was a very inviting café so we went in for lunch.  I had the Veal cordon bleu.  It was huge I have never seen such a large veal cordon bleu.  It was at least 7 inches wide and 12 inches long  and over an inch thick.  It was absolutely delicious.  

I don't have an exact distance for today's walk but it was scheduled for 15 kms.  It was a beautiful day and a great walk made even better by the wonderful scenery and the exceptional company.

Terry