Lisbon to Porto March 22, 2026

 Lisbon to Porto

Ansiao

March 22, 2026

To day was one of shortest days of the trip with only 13 kms.  Breakfast wasn't until 7:30 am so we were not on the road until 8:20.  Not that it mattered as check in was not until 3:00 pm and we were easily going to be down to the hotel well before that.  The plan was to get down to town and find a place to have a good meal and then find some groceries for tonight's supper. Being Sunday it was unlikely much would be open later.  

The rain and clouds from the stormy weather had mostly dissipated and it was broken clouds when we started but it wasn't long before we were under bright blue skies.   As the first half of the route was all up hill the sun was making it pretty hot as we trudged up the hill.  We were on a little used road which helped as you weren't stumbling over a lot of rock.   Do to my poor training I had to stop quite a few times over the first 6 kms of 10% up hill gradient. I was certainly glad to see the summit. 

On the way down the route took us off the road and down a winding trail between to ancient stone walls.  It had a really nice tree canopy so it was nice and cool.  The trail was quite rocky and you had to watch your step, but it was great to be off the pavement. 

I commented on how the flowers have suddenly appeared.  Well today they were out in full force.  All the trees are just covered in blooms.  There is a lot of citrus here and they are in full bloom as well.   Walking down the shaded trail showed lots of tiny but beautiful flowers out competing for the bees attention.  

We were in town by just after 12:00 and found a good restaurant for lunch.  I had the grilled pork platter which was really delicious.  

Today we completed walking day 9 of 17 walking days and have completed 198 kms of the 382 kms, so we have passed the half way point in the journey.  The weather forecast looks great for the next couple of weeks so it should be a very pleasant second half. 

Terry 

Lisbon to Porto March 21 2026

 Lisbon to Porto 

Alaiazere

March 21, 2026

Last night Ken and Sally joined us in Tomar.  They had flown in from Calgary and caught a taxi up to Tomar.  They had said they would arrive at 5:30 and sure enough they were there at 5:28.  This meant that our little band has grown to 6 people.  This is Ken and Sally's first hiking trip so they were pretty excited to be joining us.  This of course meant a new group picture and we did this at the first Camino sign we came to.

It wasn't long before we were out of Tomar and down the trail which took us past some old canal and water works which took boats from the city down to the river.  It was really pretty walking along the river.  It is so nice to be out of the industrial paths by Lisbon and the farm lands where there were just rutted muddy trails past one field after another.  

The rains of the last few days have ade the trail quite wet however the rains have really brought out the wild flowers.  There are these little yellow bell shaped flowers which have put on a great display.  All the flowering trees are in full bloom.  Weather looks great going forward so we are all pleased. 

Today was another long day with a distance of 30 kms and 580 m of climb.  However it was a very nice day as there was no highway and it was all trail hiking.  However there was some really steep sections and some really difficult sections as a huge wind storm with winds over 200 km had blown down a lot of trees across the trail which meant that a person had to detour around the blown down trees.  By time we got to 22 kms we decided to jump in a taxi. The hills and the blown down trees had taken their toll on us.   

Tomorrow looks like a short day at only 13 kms and with lots of sun forecast we are really looking forward to it. 

What a great day. 

Terry 

Lisbon to Porto March 20

 Lisbon to Porto

Tomar Rest Day

March 20, 2026

To day was a rest day or layover day.  We could not have chosen a better day weather wise.  It has been off and on rainy here all day but the next two days all look sunny and warm.  

It was great to be able to have not have to jump up and pull clothes, get the luggage together and have breakfast before hitting the trail.  The luxury having a nice leisurely breakfast with no time constraints was wonderful.  

There was a laundry in the next block and so Ken and I headed over there.  Ken knows about this sort of stuff where as I know nothing about laundry.  I have a magic hamper at home.  I simply put my dirty clothes into the hamper and they magically re-appear a day or so later  all on the shelf in the closet.  Having a bag full of clean clothes is great. 

We wandered around down town which is just a few blocks from the hotel but it started to rain, so it was a short walk.  It is a very pretty downtown with a beautiful church on the main square.  The town has a long history dating back to the 1600's. It was a Templar Knight town and this is reflected today as a number of the tourist junk shops sell knight swords and shields.    

About 12:30 we walked back down town where a I found a new walking hat.  It wasn't cheap at 35 Euros but it is exactly what I needed to replace the one I lost.   We had a lunch in a sandwich shop and headed back to the hotel. 

Ken and Sally Coburn are expected in sometime later this evening. Hopefully everything goes smoothly for them.

Terry 

Lisbon to Porto March 19 2026

 Lisbon to Porto

Tomar

March 19, 2926

Last night we were staying at a riding academy which as it turns out was quite famous in Portugal.  They turn out the horses and riders which compete in the bull fights.  

The weather forecast for today looked really rainy.  However there were quite a few breaks in the rain and the weather radar showed that there were going to be significant periods with no rain, so we were going to take advantage of the these breaks.   The second factor in today was that the first 11 kms of the walk was down a busy highway.  Not anyone's favorite especially when there is no shoulder or side walk and it has been raining.  Cars flying past blasting you with wet spray.  The second 11 kms was an off road trail through a eucalyptus forest.  The last 7 kms was down another highway into Tomar. 

We waited until the rain was past which was about 8:30 and Ken, Karen and myself took an Uber to the start of the eucalyptus forest.  It was by far the steepest section that we have encountered so far.  However it was really beautiful walking through the trees.  There were little blue flowers everywhere.  The trail was very well marked with what looked like new markers, a lot of which had stones on top. 

It didn't take long before we were in the out skirts of Tomar and walking down the busy highway into the city of Tomar.  So we ducked in to a cafe for a snack and where we called an Uber.  Timing turned out to be just right as it started to rain as we got into the car.  

A few minutes later we were in the Hotel Kamanga which is our hotel for a couple of days as we have a rest day tomorrow.

I walked up to a sporting goods store which promised to have Tilley type hats on line but didn't.  I wound up with a white base ball cap which will work to keep the sun off me.  I also found some new hiking pole tips as the others were worn out.  

Tomorrow is a layover day.  Do laundry and rest up.  Ken and Sally are also joining us tomorrow, which I am looking forward to seeing them. 

Terry

    

Lisbon to Porto March 18

Lisbon to Porto

Golega

March 18, 2026

It was another 31 kms but I knew that there was no way I was going to make 31 kms.  There was a town at the 24.5 kms make and that was my goal.  There was big rain in the forecast for the afternoon so I wanted to get to the little village and catch a taxi from there before the rain started.  

Santarem is on top of huge hill so we had a 100 meter vertical hike down to the river valley where the trail was.  It had rained quite heavily over night and the path down the hill was an extremely slippery route.  Moss and grass on the wet rocks was a bad combination.  However it was probably the most exciting part of the day.

At the bottom of the hill the trail wandered along the river.  Most of the time we were walking along farm trails though either plowed fields or fields grape vines.  Unlike back in Kelowna where a vine yard is maybe a few acres these vine yards went on for miles.  All of these trails were out in the open and the wind just howled around us.  Sometimes it was a cross wind and sometimes a quartering tail wind.  Thankfully it wasn't a head wind.

When we did get out of the fields the trail became extremely muddy and was full of huge ruts made by the tractors.  It really wasn't much fun picking your way along the muddy rutted path.

By time we got to the goal town of Azinhaga I was totally exhausted.  Ken phoned Uber and 20 minutes later we were in a Tesla which whisked us the last 6.5 kms.   The hotel is in some sort of horse riding academe.  Down stairs are a lot of stables with all the horses.  We are upstairs in the rooms, which are actually pretty nice.  

As we got settled into our hotel the skies opened up and there was 30 minute downpour.  Boy, was I ever glad to have missed that. 

Tomorrow is a 29 kms day into Tomar and our rest day.  

Terry 

 

Lisbon to Porto March 17 2026

Lisbon to Porto

Santarem

March 17, 2026

To day was a 33 kms walk so there was a lot of serious worry that this was too long a walk for us.  I was quite concerned as my physical preparation for this Camino is not very good.  Ken has a ankle issue and Karen a pulled muscle issue.  

The hotel we were at was about 7 kms out of town and we had been driven out by taxi last night so this morning we jumped in the taxi back to town and were  dropped off at the start of the Camino trail. The trail took us across the railroad tracks and wandered off through a bunch of farms.   It was pretty easy walking as it was mostly along nice flat back roads.  The roads were not very busy but when you got passed by a truck there was a lot of dust, making it better to step off the road until the dust settled down.  

We came to this one section of the trail which was on top of an old elevated rail bed.  It was quite interesting as it gave you an elevated view of the surrounding country side.  Walking down the trail in the weeds was fun.  

I was surprised at the number of stork nests there were along the trail.  Practically every tall object had a nest on it and a pair of nesting storks attending it.  They seem like really graceful fliers but their landing onto the nest seems like it involves a lot of wing flapping. 

At the 15 kms mark we came to the little village of Valadara.  It was about 11:15 and it was the decision point as the trail wandered off where there were no roads until you reached Santarem where we are staying.  Take a taxi or continue on walking the remaining 18 kms.    Ken, Karen and myself opted to take a taxi.  Barb opted to continue on walking.  Ken called an Uber and 15 minutes later we were seated in an electric Kia and on our way to the hotel.  Less than 20 minutes later we were checking in to our hotel.

Tonight's hotel is a stunning apartment with a marvelous balcony where Ken and I spent the afternoon sipping cold beer.  

Terry 

 

 

Lisbon to Porto March16, 2026

 Lisbon to Porto 

Azambuja

March 16, 2026

I was certainly glad to check out of last nights hotel.  The micro room had the absolute worst beds.  Mine had a huge saggy hole right in the middle and no matter how I lay it was uncomfortable.  It wasn't until I realized that the bottom of the bed wasn't as saggy and so by putting my pillow at the foot of the bed was I able to get some sleep.  The bathroom was so small you could not close the door with out stepping into the shower. 

The first part of the trail was along the river and it was quite pretty.  However it wasn't very far and we were into an industrial area. On the one side was the railroad tracks and the other side was industrial.  This was pretty much the way is was all day.  It wasn't until we got to the very last 5 kms that we had farm land on the one side and rail tracks on the other.  

It got quite hot during the day and there was zero shade to be had any where.  To make matters worse I lost my hat somewhere along the line.  Luckily Ken had a back up baseball cap other wise I would be fried.  Hats off to my friend Ken.  I will have to find a new one on the day off in Tomar. 

We stopped for a lunch in a small village and Ken and I each had a burger, Ken had a beer and I had a coke for a total of 9.10 Euros.  What a deal.  

Right at the end a stork was on the trail and kept walking along just in front of us.  It was probably leading us away from her nest, but it was fun following her.  

The hotel we are at tonight is away out in the country so we had to have a taxi ride out here.  They don't have any meal service so it will be dig though the packs to see what we can dig out. It is a beautiful place with great rooms.  So I am hoping for a great nights sleep.

Terry 

Lisbon to Porto March 15, 2026

 Lisbon to Porto

Vila Franca de Xira

March 15, 2026

This mornings breakfast was absolutely wonderful.  They had everything including the small sautéed mushrooms which I just love. They also had the small chocolate croissants which are a really close second in my books.  It made up for the fact that the hotel did not have a restaurant and we had to find stuff at the supermarket next door for supper.  

We were back out on the large board walk which follows up Tagus river for the majority to todays walk.  The board walk is dead easy to follow and is a really nice smooth walking surface,  however you are really exposed to the wind of which there was lots of today.  We are generally headed north along the river and the wind was straight out of the north west.  This meant one hand on your hat and the other holding your poles.  Even though it was pretty warm and would have been fine without a jacket but the wind made it so that you needed a jacket most of the time. 

At this one point we did leave the board walk and headed though this little village.  We stopped to read our maps and heard this high pitched whistle which was in short bursts.  Looking around on the other side of the road was a man calling his pigeons.  He would blow the whistle and the pigeons would circle around and land on the roof of the coop.  He would then shake their food container and guide the pigeon into the coop using a long whip like stick. More whistle blowing and more pigeons.  It was really fascinating. I had no idea as to how pigeon keepers looked after their flock. 

Later in the day we met up with an Australian lady who is walking the full Camino from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostella.  She was very nice but had very little idea of where she was going or how to get there.  So far she is the only other person we have seen who is doing a Camino.  The board walk is full of walkers, runners and cyclists but no pilgrimers. 

Today was a 20 kms walk which was really a great walk.  I must say that yesterday I was all in after the walk but today I felt just fine.  

Tomorrow is a really short day as it is only 13 kms however we do have to take a taxi to get to the hotel. 

Terry