Monday, March 30, 2026

Lisbon to Porto March 30 2026

 Lisbon to Porto

Porto

March 30 2026








This morning we were picked up from our hotel and driven to the place where we left off yesterday in Grijo.  We got kind of late start as we had only 16 kms to walk today.  

The first section of the walk was mostly along rural roads with houses and small places along both sides of the road.  There was a sideway most of the way so even though there was a fair amount of traffic which was mostly commuters heading to work we were not bothered by them.  It was still quite cool so the going wasn't hard.  

The second part of the walk was up this old Roman road which consisted of these large granite stones which had been put down. It was and incredible steep section so the going was quite difficult.  Although it was only 4 of so kms it seemed like forever.  Fortunately it was through a heavily wooded section so there was lots of shade.  Once we got to the top there was a long down hill and it wasn't very much easier going down.  

By the time we got to the end of the Roman road we were already in the outskirts of Porto.  We walked along for a couple of kms and as it was lunch time Ken T found a very nice restaurant and we went in.  Their grilled chicken dinner for 5.5 euros was a great deal.  The two Kens and I each had the chicken and it was served with a huge plate of rice , a Plate of fries, a plate of salad and two platters of grilled chicken.  We did finish the chicken but there was a mountain of fries and rice left. 

After lunch we still had about 7 kms to go but by now it was getting hot.  We were also heading straight across Porto.  By time we got to the bridge across the river I was pretty much all in but we still had 3 more kms to go and it was all up hill.  The views were tremendous but it was all I could do to keep moving.  

So here we are in Porto.  The 330 kms journey is complete.  We have an extra day in Porto before heading home.   

What a journey it has been.  I am so glad that I was able to complete this trip.

Terry 


Sunday, March 29, 2026

Lisbon to Porto March 29

Lisbon to Porto

Grijo

March 29, 2026







I realized that when I made the comment about the billions and billions of 2" square chunks of white granite which make up the sidewalks and a lot of the roads that not everyone may know what I was reffering to so here is a picture. 

This morning the hotel did not have a breakfast so we were directed to a small cafe next door.  They did a wonderful job of filling us up.  Hot coffee and pastries which were absolutely delicious.  I stuffed half of my ham and cheese pastry into a sandwich bag for my lunch.   

I don't know what I was thinking when I made up the Garmin route for today as it wasn't even close to the actual Camino route.  However the Camino is extremely well marked and while not impossible to get lost there are tons of signs every where you look.  Ken T and his All-Trails subscription got us going in the right direction and from there it was just follow the arrows. 

It was only 9 C to start the morning but it warmed up quickly and I was glad I had zipped the legs off of my pants the night before.  It only took a few kms and I was taking off a layer and was down to a short sleeve shirt.  The weather here has been just out standing with highs in the low 20's C.   Beautiful blue skies and a slight breeze to cool you off.

We didn't have any trails today and the only section we had was about one kms of what was clearly an old Roman road.  The rest of the 22.5 ks was all down paved roads.  Most of the paved roads were quiet however there were a few sections where there was a lot of traffic even though it was Sunday today.

Today was another place where we had to take a taxi to the hotel from the end of the route.  Right at the end of the route was a very nice bar and we ducked in and ordered a beer. The prearrange taxi number worked right away and I handed the phone to the bartender who gave the taxi directions and 15 minutes later we were off to the hotel.

It is an extremely nice hotel and as tomorrow is only a 16 kms day we get a sleep in.  In fact tomorrow is the last walking day so should be great. 

Today was great and considering what bad shape I was in when I arrived I feel great.

Terry 



 

Saturday, March 28, 2026

Lisbon to Porto March 28

Lisbon to Porto 

Sao Joao da Madeira

March 28, 2026








This morning we were taking a taxi back to the place where we left off yesterday, as we had two nights in the same hotel.  Taking the taxi thing is always a little bit iffy as you are now relying on someone else's organization to make things work.  It isn't simply a matter of stepping out of the hotel and you are on your way.  However the taxi was there exactly on time and it was a very nice comfy Mercedes van with lots of room for all six of us and our back packs.  

Twenty minutes later we stepped out of the van right on to the route.  From where the taxi dropped us we had a 28 kms walk to day with 640 meters of climb.  It was 8:25 as we started down the road and the sun was out and while there was a little chill in the air it wasn't going to be long before the temperature was headed towards the 20's.  

The walk today was through semi rural country side.  Small gatherings of houses and small industrial areas.  It was all down quiet paved roads most of which had a side walk on both sides although some stretches had one one side walk and some didn't have any side walks.  The side walks all are made of these 2-3 inch rectangular white quartz stones which have been laid cobble stone fashion.  In fact hey have been the subject of more than one conversation about how much labour it must take to lay these what has to be billions and billions of stones. Is making and selling these stones a big business in Portugal? 

When we hit the 21 kms walk Ken T, Karen, Sally and myself were done for the day and we stopped for a beer at a side walk Cafe.  Ken T loaded Uber and it said 1 minute for the Uber so we finished our beers before calling the Uber.  The beer was ice cold and we were hot sweaty and tired. It was so great. 

About 15 minutes later we were stepping out of the Uber and into our hotel.  It is a really nice place right on the city center square.  Two queen beds in the room over looking the square.  Doesn't get any better. 

I forgot to start my Garmin watch as we left the taxi so I never knew where exactly I was during the day and then I forgot to turn it off when we got into Uber.  So much for recording todays walk.  

What a great day walking today.

Terry 






 

Friday, March 27, 2026

Lisbon to Porto March 27 2026

 Lisbon to Porto

Albergaria-a-Velha

March 27, 2026






This morning our breakfast was not served in the hotel but was at a small cafe at the end of the block.  It was not as elaborate as most of the breakfasts we have enjoyed so far.  You got a large glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, a coffee, and a heated ham and cheese pastry.  It filled the bill.  

The route I had followed for my Garmin routes was from the Camino Ways web site and they are not exactly the same as what is on the ground. Today the Camino Ways route was up the highway where as the course lead us along the river before heading up the escarpment. A long steep escarpment it was I might add.  Best guess was it hit 25% or more in sections.  My guess was the highway was not as steep.

As today we were being transported back to our hotel in Aduega and I had to pre-arrange the taxi time and meeting place there was no time to waste. It was only 16.5 kms and I had given us what I thought was plenty of time to get down to the next stop but every time we hit a hill and the pace dropped I was looking at my watch. It seemed like there was one hill after another.

The route took us down a lot of secondary roads and through a lot of newer subdivisions.  Newer in that they were less than 200 years old.  Although a lot of it was probably less than 50 years old.  There  was only one section of less than one kms which was on a trail and probably only 3 kms which was a gravel road which serviced some sort of logging operations.  

We arrived in the village of  Albergaria-a-Velha and at the designated café at 11:30 which was 90 minutes before the designated time so we were plenty early.   The web page for the café made it look pretty deluxe but it was pretty tiny.  Although they did have cold beer for 1.3 euros.  I phoned the taxi company to see if they could come early but they couldn't so we had lots of time to have a couple of beers.  The taxi which  showed up was a huge 9 passenger van so we had lots of room and he was  exactly on time.  The taxi whisked us back to the hotel. 
 
The weather has continued to hold and looks absolutely fabulous for the rest of the way into Porto. 

Turned out to be an excellent day hiking.

Terry   



Thursday, March 26, 2026

Lisbon to Porto March 26 2026

Lisbon to Porto

Agueda

March 26, 2026







This morning we were picked up by the taxi which was to drive us back to Mealhada at 8:15.  I arranged with the taxi driver to take us about 4 kms north. He wanted 16 euros which probably wasn't a great deal but we were already committed. When we got to the little village which was up the road he then insisted on buying us coffee.  He was a very engaging fellow.  

The trail north was down a bunch of paved roads which were not overly busy but busy enough that you had to keep your watch out.  At about 9 kms after we left the the place where the taxi had dropped us off we were walking through an industrial park.  At this point Ken T wasn't feeling very well.  It might have been the heat as it was quite warm.  It wasn't much of hike so Ken and I took an Uber into town.  

When we got to the hotel it was too early to check in so Ken and I went and had a great chicken dinner and enjoyed sitting on the patio down by the river.  It was very relaxing.  I certainly didn't regret missing the hike in the sun through an industrial area.   

After lunch we wandered back to the hotel and checked in.  This is the place on the tour where we are staying for two nights. Tomorrow we hike 16 kms and are taxied back.  The room we have might be the smallest room I have ever seen.  It brings to mind the old Nelson DeMille comedy line "The room was so small I had to leave to change my mind."  I asked if they had a spare room but the place is fully booked.  

While the walk wasn't so good, spending the afternoon sitting on the patio in the sun with my good friend Ken was absolutely the best.

Terry 

 

Wednesday, March 25, 2026

Lisbon to Porto March 25, 2026

 Lisbon to Porto 

Mealhada

March 25, 2026








Today's hike was close to 25 kms.  I don't know why I thought it was going to be an easy day.  It certainly didn't turn out that way.  

When we left our hotel in Coimbra we had a huge down hill back to the river.  Going down th 130 of what was probably 20% down hill on really rough cobble stones was not a lot easier than going up the night before, other than we were on fresh legs.   Once we got down the hill to the river the course followed the river for several kms.  There is a beautiful pedestrian stroll along the river and in the early morning there were a lot  of commuters headed in to the city.  The trail followed  though farm land until we reached the 8 km mark when the route turned into the hills.   This was the big climb of the day and we had about 45 kms of around 10% to reach the summit.  The last 1.5 kms was down a freeway which had a bike lane but was still kind of scary.  I had my hat tied down tight as I didn't want it snatched off may head by a semi.

After we got off  the freeway we took a path through a eucalyptus grove.  This trail was the first off pavement we had seen all day and there was about 6 kms of the grove.   It was great to be off the highway and in the trees.  The trees provided shade which was really welcome as it was probaly close to 23 C and the heat was just bouncing off the asphalt   

From the the grove it was back on to some quiet back roads where there weren't many cars but it was hot on the  pavement.  

I was certainly glad to see the Inter-Marche where the taxis were to meet us and whisk us to our hotel. The hotel is a great country estate but it is a long way out in the country and with no food services.  Good thing we stopped at the store and picked up some supplies.  

I know that I am not the only one who is tired tonight. I think Calgary Ken and Sally are all in as well.  Ken T was the power house today out front leading the way all day.  

Great weather and beautiful country side certainly made for a wonderful day.

Terry 


Tuesday, March 24, 2026

Lisbon to Porto March 24 2026

 Lisbon to Porto Com

Coimbra

Marchn24, 2026










I am absolutely floored by the streak of great weather we are having.  Nothing but blues skies, temperatures in the high teens, to low 20's with almost zero wind.  I hope that by saying it I haven't jinxed it.  However it really needs to be said and I thank the weather Gods.  

This morning we were all in great spirits as it was only a 19 kms day.  So after a very nice breakfast we were off down the road.  Karen who was really sore after yesterday's hike had nothing but big smiles on all day.  Even myself who has been suffering from lack of proper training felt great.

The first section out of town followed down a very busy road and we sure glad to get off it and on to the proper trail.  The trail it's self followed the main freeway north which connects up to Porto.  In fact Sally spotted a sign which said Porto 121 kms.  We have a lot further to go but we aren't on the freeway.  

The trail wandered through a lot of little villages but there wasn't a café to be had anywhere so we trudged on.  We finally stopped in a parking lot of a large grocery market for a break.  I got a 1.5 liter bottle of ice cold water for 0.42 Euros and drank the bulk of it. Best 0.42 euros spent ever.  

When we got to Coimbra it was just past 12:00 so we stopped just short of the river at a sidewalk Kabob shop for lunch.  My kabob in a pita was huge and was absolutely delicious.  The view of Coimbra across the river was stunning.  It is a beautiful city, set against the river back on a huge hill.  

The hotel was at the very top of the hill past an ancient aqueduct.  The hotel is rated as two star but is a very nice comfortable place.  It is totally remodeled and a great place for tired travellers. 

What a wonderful day it has been. 

Terry 


Monday, March 23, 2026

Lisbon to Porto March 23

 Lisbon to Porto

Condeixa-a-Nova

March 23, 2026










We were looking forward to a warm day and we certainly were not disappointed.  Although the weather channel was saying 22 C it was a lot warmer out on the pavement.  

The route was 32 kms with quite a few ups and downs along the way.  It was kind of a mixture of paved roads, gravel roads, and trails.  The paved roads were hot but easy walking, the gravel roads were  not as easy walking but were not as hot and the trails tended to be the hardest walking as they were generally very uneven stones but were the coolest.  

As we travelled up the valley the hills got steeper.  The first 13 kms were pretty much all up hill and after that there was a lot more down than up. Some of the trail sections were really steep to the point of almost stair steep.  

As the day wore on I was getting more and more tired as was Ken T and Sally.  By time we reached the 24 kms mark the three of us were all in.  We had hoped to find an Uber in a little town of Zambujal however there was no Uber to be had.  The young man behind bar there had a little English and he called us a taxi.  About 15 minutes later the taxi showed up and the three of us pilled in.  It was only a 15 minute ride but would have taken us about 2 hr to walk it.  We were so happy to see the taxi. 

The weird last picture is of a steel wire and rod sculpture of an antique sewing machine.  It didn't turn out quite as well as I had hoped. 

We are in a beautiful older hotel tonight with what is probably the best room so far on the tour.  

Tomorrow is an 19 kms walk we should be in good shape.

Terry