Sept 13, 2017 Sabrosa

Liam and I were off at about 8:30 am this morning in to some very nice cool air.   And it was a good thing that it was nice cool air as we almost immediately started the big climb of the day.  We headed up a small back road to a small hill town called Sabrosa.  The road wound around the hills clinging to the rocks as we went up from the Duoro river.  There was almost no traffic to speak of save for a few trucks heading out to the vineyards with the empty grape crates. It was a very steady climb of approximately 5.5% for the entire 17 kms up to Sabrosa.   The scenery was absolutely spectacular.  As we climbed the hill each new corner revealed a new vista.  This climb took us approximately 1.5 hr as we arrived at 10:00 am which was just in time for morning coffee. 

The town of Sabrosa is a very pretty little town perched on the top of one of the hills with a very nice town square.  A small church on one side with bells which chimed on the quarter hour, two small shops selling dry goods, coffee and pastries along one side, a pizza place named Atomic Pizza and an apartment along the last side. We enjoyed an ice cold coke and a very nice apple pastry, while we contemplated what toppings would be on an Atomic Pizza.  If pepperoni is on a pepperoni pizza what is on an Atomic Pizza? 

From Sabrosa we continued along the tops of the hills visiting Santa Martinho de Anta and Andreas. It was much cooler on the top of the hills and is a pine forest similar to back home in Kelowna.  I hope that it did not give the impression that riding along the top of the hills was flat as it was anything but flat.  There were lots of large ups and downs but nothing over 7% and 1 kms in length. 

As it was getting on in the day we headed back down into the Douro Valley.  It was 24 kms from the top of the hill at Andreas to Regua on the Douro River.  The downhill wasn’t as steep but averaged about 4%.  The scenery was just flying by.  All the vistas were whizzing past, no time for pictures, just hang on.  What a ride!   As we got to Regua we crossed the Douro River on a dam and now got to ride back up the N222 to Pinhao (see yesterday’s comments of this section of road).  It is just so beautiful. 

We got back to the hotel and had a very quick shower and headed straight back out as we had booked a boat trip on the Douro River.  Agnes and Suibhan were waiting for us on the dock and we jumped on the boat.  The boat was an electric powered boat which had solar cells mounted on top.  I doubt that the solar cells produced enough energy to power the boat by themselves, but being electric it was nice and quiet and didn’t have a bunch of nasty diesel exhaust.   The river cruise was an hour long trip and took us up river for 30 minutes before turning around.  It was very scenic and nice and cool on the river.   The temperature had gotten to be quite warm and although I don’t have an exact number I am going to say it was probably over 30 C. 

Agnes and Suibhan had scouted a restaurant across the street from the train station in Pinhao which looked nice.  It was a very old school Portuguese place with a fixed menu.  You came in, sat down and they brought out food, and did they ever bring out the food.  There were homemade smoked sausages, barbequed pork ribs with cabbage, a lamb-vegetable-potato stew, beans and sausage casserole and a couple of different rice dishes, plus homemade bread.   Then during the meal a sample of their port appeared complementary.  Then a second sample of the port.  Finally the owner came over and explained that his father made the port and would you like a bottle. It was aged 12 years and was only 15 Euros.  Seemed like a deal so Liam bought a bottle.   What a feast!  All the food was so tasty and so good.  It was just what I was looking for after the big ride. 

Check out this little house I spotted on the way home from supper.  It was located on a set of stairs on the second floor. The actual house cannot be more than 7 feet wide by 10 feet long.

It was a great day today we cycled 76 kms and did 1071 meters of climb.  We had a wonderful boat ride.  Then topped it all off with a wonderful feast. 

I must be the luckiest guy in the world.

Terry

Sept 12 2017 Pinhao Portugal

This morning we had a leisurely breakfast in the hotel and then assembled bikes.  However once bikes were assembled both Liam and I were keen to jump on the bikes and go for a ride.  After all we are right here in the Duoro Valley and right in front of us is the 2015’s World’s Best Road.   However don’t take my word for this.  Check out the web site which details this section of road:  2015 Worlds Best Road  (press control and then click the mouse to open the link)

Portugal’s Estrada National 222 which links Pinhao where we are staying with Peso da Regua is totally stunning.  It a beautiful section of ultra-smooth pavement with very few vehicles and the magnificent scenery of the Douro River and valley.  So we left the hotel and headed out along N222.  WOW is the only word for it.   From there we turned off the main road and headed up to Tabuaco.  This secondary road climbed sharply away from the Douro River.   It was a 10 km climb which averaged around 6 %.  The heat of the day was well on us now so by time I got to Tabuaco I was soaked in perspiration.  A coke and a big drink from the town square fountain set me up for the final assault on the top of the hill.  A few more kilometers and we were over the top and on the way back down to the Douro Valley. 

The ride down was lots easier and I was able to appreciate how beautiful it was.  The road was lined with vine yards which are just loaded with grapes.  There were a lot of trucks stacked high with crates filled to over flowing with grapes. 

For supper Liam had made reservations in this gourmet restaurant in another village so we set off for it.  The menu was like nothing I had ever seen.  Roast goat kid, wild boar, and rabbit sausage, just to name a few of the unusual items.  I had to try the wild boar stew.  The portion was huge. Giant chunks of meat in this delicious gravy with roast potatoes.  The wild boar had quite a strong flavour but it was terrific.     

A day which stories will be told;  riding the world’s best road in the Douro Valley, and feasting on wild boar.  It just doesn’t get any better.

Terry

Sept 11 2017, Porto Portugal

I know that this is going to sound hard to believe but Porto is actually the birth place of Port.  Like Champagne which is made only from grapes grown in Champagne France can Port which is a sweet fortified wine can only be called Port if the grapes are grown in the Douro Valley and the wine is produce there.    It comes in an amazing range of varieties however from white to red and sweet to dry.  

So we were up early and off down the freeway to Porto.  Liam and Suibhan dropped Agnes and I off at a mall which was on the outskirts of Porto and had a convenient metro.   Agnes and I jumped on the metro and were down town in a very short time.  Porto was founded in 1123 as a port on the Atlantic. In the intervening years it has grown to the second largest city in Portugal and has a population of 2.4 million.   The downtown core is a historic center and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Most of the cathedrals date back to the early 1300-1500’s although they all have had major rebuilding periods done in the 1800’s.  We were kind of disappointed as the majority of the cathedrals were closed today.   The city is situated on the Douro river and the hills rise very steeply from the river.  This leads to a lot of very narrow winding streets and in a lot of cases no street at all but steps.   At one point Agnes and I took a side street off the side of a cathedral and wound up walking down what seemed like an endless series of twisting stairs, most of which were very steep and quite high.  We finally came out on the riverside which at one point must have been a very busy harbour but today is a meca of side walk cafes and souvenir shops.    It is a very interesting place which is filled with imposing statues, beautiful fountains, breath taking views and fascinating architecture and history.  Everywhere you turn it is a beehive of activity.  There are hundreds of workman doing restoration work, bustling business people, frantic waiters trying to serve the endless crowds of hungry customers, and all of this activity brings a huge energy to the city.  

The rain and mist which had been threatening had burned off and it had turned into quite a nice day.  So rather than rushing around and taking a river cruise as we had been advised to do we took our time and just enjoyed the lovely atmosphere.   We stopped and had coffee and a Pastel De Nata which is a national favorite.  It is kind of a custard tart which is very nice.  

It was a long climb back up the hill to the metro so we took our time and wandered into a selection of souvenir shops.   Agnes found an apron which is very colourful and displays all the windows with the iron work balconies on it.  I found a very nice cycling jersey which proudly calls out Portugal on  it.  The only down side is that it is white.  How long I can keep it white is a totally different question.  Before you know it, this beautiful white jersey will be displaying a chain mark.

Liam and Suibhan picked us up and we drove out to our hotel in Pinhao. Liam and I are planning a few bike rides in the Douro valley as it is alleged to have the most beautiful cycling routes in the world.

Terry

Sept 10, 2017 Fatima

Bright and early this morning we loaded ourselves into the car and drove up to Fatima to catch the Sunday morning service at the Fatima basilica.   

Let me give you a little background on Fatima.  It was the site of an appearance of the Holy Virgin in 1917.  The Holy Virgin appeared before three children and ordered them to return to the same tree every day for six months.  On the final day some 70,000 pilgrims were with the children to witness the appearance of the holy Virgin.  However only Lucia the oldest of the three children heard the final words of the Holy Virgin which as a vision of Hell, a vision of a war worse than World War I and of a papal assassination.  This final vision was finally revealed by Pope John Paul II on the occasion of the millennium when he visited Fatima.   My apologies if I do not have the facts exactly right. 

The basilica is quite large with a central tower which is 213 feet (65 m) and is set with statues of the saints on either side.  The esplanade which is set in front of the basilica is twice the size of St Peter’s square in Rome.  It held over a million people on the occasion of John Paul’s visit.  In the square is a giant rosary, a giant crucifix and a statue of John Paul II.  I have to say it is a very impressive sight and it is no wonder that it attracts millions of pilgrims every year. 

After our visit we wandered out into the town and down the streets of Fatima. They are crowded with shops selling every manner of religious paraphernalia.  There is something for everyone.  There is an unbelievable array of statues, pillows, t-shirts, Portuguese tiles with holy pictures, key chains, rosary beads, silver trays, and on and on.  John Paul II even has his own take out restaurant.

We had a fabulous meal in a local restaurant and headed home.  To say it was a very interesting day would be a huge understatement. 

Terry