June 2, 2019 Manosque to Martigues

The hotel we were in last night was the Terreau Hotel in old town Manosque.   It was absolutely charming.  It was a little family run hotel which was right on the main downtown square. The building was at least 250 years old.  When you put your hands on the window sill and looked out on the square there was a sense of history there. How many different hands have been on that window sill and how many things have passed through that square?  We dined in an outdoor restaurant which was right next door.  The meal was arguably the best of the entire tour and we ate very well and in some very nice places.   

Today was the last ride day of the Pathfinders 2019 – Southern France tour and we all worn our tour jerseys. So after a great breakfast in the hotel we were on the road.  Of course we started the day with a long climb.  It was about 8 kms of about 2-3% but by the time I got to the top sweat was running down my face and I had to stow my glasses in my bento box.   The up and downs of the course continued for 25 kms when we came to a little village which had the entire town streets torn up.  As the course continued down the construction we wheeled around the do not enter sign and continued down the street. Low and behold there was the nicest little square and a café.  What a perfect spot for a coffee.  Bob finally gets a morning coffee.  

Back on the road the course was a great downhill all the way to the 44.5 km mark where we crossed the river Durance.  Naturally we had to climb out the other side of the river valley so we were faced with a 7.5 kms climb which topped out at just under 5%.  The course had been on and off some busier roads but the climb was on a tree lined back road which had no cars. This was great as it was 11:00 am and the sun was beating down and the temperature was in the upper 20’s.   

The downhill from the summit was through a lot of back roads and we were looking for lunch but nothing appeared.  We finally came to a town which was also under construction which had a bunch of shops but no sandwiches or lunch type stuff.  Pressing on we finally came to a super market at the 70 kms mark and got some bad premade sandwiches with cardboard bread in plastic wrap.  Better than nothing and while there was no cold soda they did have cold orange juice to wash it down.  

It was only 12:15 and we had only 32 kms to go and check in at the Airbnb was not until 4:00 PM.  As there was nothing to do but push on we started down the road.  There was an excellent section of about 8 kms alongside an irrigation ditch where the road was only 8 feet wide. It was a lot of fun just gliding along.  At this point we came to the north end of the Etang de Berre which is a large lake which is connected to Mediterranean.  Although we were on a back road there was a lot of weekend traffic on this narrow road and there were a lot of steep pitches.  Some of the pitches were over a kilometer long and very steep.  

At about 2:00 pm we came out to the D4 which is the only way down to Martigues.  It is a very busy road and while there was a pretty good shoulder on most of it the traffic circles were scary with cars whizzing in and out.  The last 12 kms down this road went on and on.  However we still had some time to kill before check in so when we were about a kilometer from the condo I pulled my phone out and Googled “bars near me”.   One popped up a 150 meters away so we headed right over.  The Stella was ice cold.  

As we were finishing our beer Agnes texted me that she had checked in and when would we be there. I texted back 5 minutes after my luggage is in the room.  As it turned out it took us about 10 minutes.

The Airbnb we are staying is an absolute gem.  It has a great deck which overlooks the Etang du Berre.  The view is absolutely spectacular.  Agnes and Judy had stopped and picked up some groceries for supper so we had an end of tour feast.  

What a great last day of riding.  Great weather, some fun climbs, some exciting downhills, some perfect winding country roads and of course great fellowship.  I have really enjoyed my time on this tour with Agnes, Judy and Ken, and my good friend Bob.  I am really looking forward to riding with them again. 

Terry

PS: stay tuned for the final day before the flight home to Kelowna and a wrap up story.

June 1, 2019 Gap to Manosque

Today was an exceptional day.  We rolled out of our hotel in Gap and within a kilometer we were sailing down a beautifully paved road which was at least 15 meters wide with no center line and no vehicles.  The sun was out in a total cloudless sky which was the brightest of blues.  The road was generally downhill for the first 3.5 kms when we came to the first climb of the day.  However as it was only 3.5 kilometers of 3.5% we were over that in no time.   A fast downhill followed with lots of sweeping curves and the odd switchback just to keep a person on his brakes.  

We were headed down the valley and so every one of the curves presented a magnificent view of the fields and orchards below, capped by the distant mountains.  It was so pretty that I had to stop numerous times to make sure I captured a good picture.

Our road turned to a much busier road which had a shoulder some of the time.  So when we turned back to our side road I breathed a lot easier.  However the pavement on this road suddenly ended and we were faced with about 450 of unpaved road.  We rode about 300 of the 450 and walked about 150 but when we got back to the main road Bob was not pleased and told me that there was a mutiny brewing in the lower decks.  Bob being from the Australian navy couches things in navel terms and with an Australian accent the “e” in decks is pronounced as an “i”. Ken and I had a good laugh.

The road turned back to the no center line road for the next 35 kms and it was just beautiful. There was even a sign say that the road was a UNESCO World heritage site. I believe it as the views were truly amazing.  I would love to ride this road in the fall when all of the fresh fruit is in season.

This put us down to Sisteron which is the site of a 1200’s castle.  It is situated at an amazing place. The river cuts through this narrow gorge where the rock has been stood on edge.  The castle has had a long and amazing history from the 1200’s, to playing an important role in Napoleon’s march north and even up to ww2 when it became strategically important.  Agnes and Judy toured the castle but we contented ourselves to have lunch in the square below the castle. There was a farmers market being held there and the place was a beehive of activity.  Tables were piled high with produce, fresh fish, baked goods and homemade sausage.

After lunch we continued on down the valley sometimes on the busy main road and sometimes on quieter side roads.   There were lots of climbs which were about a kilometer in length but the road was generally downhill so we made good time.  

We stopped at the 73 km mark for some drinks as the sun was quite intense and the temperature was close to 27 C.   After we came out a wind from the south had come up and presented us with a head wind which meant that we now had to pedal even on the downhills.  

The last 25 kms into Manosque were down a very busy road and Ken and I were grinding our teeth over all the traffic.  However we made it into town. 

I had taken us through the very oldest part of town and through some walking areas which were probably only 8 feet wide. It was a lot of fun.  We emerged from the walking area to the square where our hotel is and I contacted Agnes.  She and Judy were back in the walking area having ice cream so we turned around and joined them.  We sat in a perfect little square and watched a wedding procession and had a beer.  Set your watch back 200 years and just enjoy the peace and tranquil scene. It was truly magical.

What a great day.  We covered 108 kms and climbed 975 meters but descended 1200 meters.

Terry