July 4 2017, Giggleswick to Penrith

We got to sleep in this morning as breakfast was not served until 8:30 AM.  It was a really big Full English breakfast with all the trimmings.  However by the time it was served and we had eaten it was past 9:30 AM.  Outside it was just pouring so what do we do?  It was a late start on what was a very hard day.  The ride was 75 miles (120 kms) down an unpaved path with 5750 ft (1750 m) of climb.  The path was bound to muddy and the Garmin profile showed a lot of really steep climb.  

Jos had broken a tooth the other day and had been trying to find a dentist to see him for the last few days and had been unsuccessful.  Patrick had gotten some temporary tooth putty stuff and packed it into the hole.  I think it helped but it was only a stop gap measure.  Jos was keen to seek out a dentist and I can’t say I blame him.  It would have been my top priority.  

Looking at the brochures in the lobby of the guest house I found a pamphlet for the Castle Skipton.  We hadn’t seen a Norman castle yet on this trip so it was decided we would head over to see the castle while Jos phoned around to find a dentist.  The Skipton Castle was built in 1090 as a motte and baily castle and was extended over the years.  By 1645 the castle had been was under siege by Oliver Cromwell for three years and was the only castle in northern England still loyal to the king.   After the siege failed Lady Anne Clifford ordered the castle rebuilt and a yew tree planted in the court yard.  The castle was rebuilt and is now open to the public.  By the time Patrick and Agnes and I had finished touring the castle Jos had found a dentist who could fit him in so we jumped back in the van and headed off to make the appointment.

While in the van Patrick and I had a little nap.  Agnes figured out the dental office was just three doors from where we were staying.  At the top of the pass in to Penrith the rain was hammering down so hard the wipers could hardly keep up and we were glad not to be on a muddy path.

In the end Jos got his tooth fixed and then we all went out for steaks. 

Tomorrow we are off to see Hadrian’s wall. 

Terry

July 3 2017 York to Giggleswick

We were on the road by 8:30 am this morning.  There was a very stiff breeze out of the west which was not a good sign as basically we were headed due west.  Never the less we were off and made good time on the first leg of the route which due north out of York following the river.   At the 8 mile mark the course turned west and we were straight on into the wind.  Fortunately the course was all down paved roads some of the roads were busy and some were just lanes.  It was hard to stay in any kind of pace line into the wind as the course was so winding and the terrain was so up and down.   The first 30 miles (50 kms) was quite flat with almost no big hills.  After that the hills started coming on and got bigger and steeper bigger the further we got.  To days course had a total climb of 5512 ft (1682 m) and a distance of 75.7 miles (122 Kms).

The first stop at the 35 mile (56 kms) mark was the Fountains Abbey at Studley Royal Water Gardens, which was a National Heritage site.   This  Abbey was built in 1168 by the Cistercian monks who had left York to pursue a more devout life.  The abbey prospered and grew due to the excellent location and resources of the area.  The monks built a huge abbey which cover a very large area.  Then in 1568 Henry VIII order the abbey closed as the abbeys were gaining too much regional power.  The abbey was abandon and it fell into ruin. The National Heritage society took it over and is now open to the public.  The place is absolutely stunning in it immensity.  The detailing on the stone work has been lot in the last 500 years but there is still a lot of evidence of how incredibly beautiful it must have been. The pictures speak for themselves.

The second stop was the Brimham Rocks, also a National Heritage site.   It is a very unusual site as you come around the corner and in this natural draw of the hillside are these huge sandstone formations.  Back home we would call them Hoodoo’s.   Not quite Hoodoos in that they are not conical but large sandstone blocks which have been carved out by wind and water.  They were quite fun to walk around and take pictures.  The view from there of the surrounding country side is absolutely phenomenal. 

By now the wind is just howling straight into our faces.  Patrick and I were saying it was 35 mph (56 kms).  Ok fun is over lets load bikes and drive the last few miles into Giggleswick.  We are staying at the Craven Arms where we had reserved the king suite but got stuck in a tiny room with one of the smallest doubles ever. 

Tomorrow is another tough day with 61 miles (100 kms) and 5740 feet (1750 m) climb.  Fortunately the wind is forecast to be on our backs. 

Terry

July 2, 2017 Second Rest Day In York

Today was the second rest day in York.  It was nice and sunny this morning so Jos, Patrick and I cleaned bike and oiled chains.  Jos and I had tubes to patch so we did this while we drank coffee and relaxed in the sun. 

Agnes and I set off to see the York Castle Museum and the downtown area which is called the Shambles.  The York Castle Museum is in the old prison which was built in 1068 by William the Conqueror.  It operated as a prison in various forms, debtors prison, women’s prison, until 1910.  In 1938 John Kirk took it over and turned it into a museum.  He had been a local doctor and had taken all sorts of things as payment over the years.  Everything from horse tack to fine china was taken and collected.  This was placed in the museum.  The museum then collected store fronts from around the area to set up a Victorian Street.  The lights cycle from day to night and you can go into some of the shops to see people in costume and talk about their business.   They have a huge World War One gallery.  It is very well done and well kind of scary.  There is a “1960’s”gallery with a collection of things from the 1960’s.  It was kind of fun watching the visitors gawking at stuff I grew up with.   Agnes and I spent about three hours visiting the museum.

After we got out of the museum we hit a tea room for sandwiches and tea.  Refueled we strolled down the Shambles which is a medieval street in the center of York.  The street is probably no more than 8 feet (2 m) wide. The entire downtown area is a walking area.  Agnes and I had lots of fun looking in all of the tourist trap shops at the made in China souvenirs.  There was a shop which was called the “The shop which shall not be named”.  It sold nothing but Harry Potter paraphernalia.  I would have loved to go into the shop but there was a twenty minute line up to get.  There was an Air Force military band playing and a fly over of four planes. Before heading home we walked up to the York Abbey which is one of the largest cathedrals in England however it was not open to the public as a service was on. 

As the afternoon was getting on we headed on back to the boat.   There we sat in the sun and drank a bottle of champagne which the boat owner had given us.   The metal deck was really hot and soaking up the warmth was great.   A home cooked meal of sausages, salad and rice with strawberries and ice cream for desert topped off a great day. 

Tomorrow is a big ride of 75 miles with three major climbs.  I think that the majority of the ride is on smaller roads so it should be a god ride. 

Terry

July 1, 2017 Rest Day York

Agnes and I had a great day visiting the British Rail Museum in York today, and had a very enjoyable afternoon sitting on the deck enjoying the warm sun.  

The British Rail Museum here in York is totally unbelievable.  The locomotive gallery has some of the most famous locomotives in history.  Several have cut away sections so you can see how they engines worked.  The range of locomotives range from the very earliest engines some of which were employed in mines to the most modern high speed streamliners.  They have the Mallard which is a streamlined steam engine and holds the world’s record as the fastest steam locomotive at 128 mph (205 km/h).  You can walk up and touch it!  They have the Duchess of Hamilton which is considered to be one of the most beautiful engines ever built.  In the gallery of trains they have the royal trains as used by King Edward, Queen Victoria, and Queen Elizabeth.  They have a layout on the floor of where everyone was supposed to stand when the royal train pulled up and the queen was about to disembark.  From the upstairs gallery you can watch the workmen in the restoration shop or go outside and watch trains pulling into or leaving the York railroad station.  They have a complete gallery which is dedicated to the Flying Scotsman. This train reduced the travel time between Edinburgh to London from 16 hours to 7 hours.  It introduced dining cars, sleeping cars and turned what was a horrid journey to be endured into a luxury experience.   The warehouse is a huge collection of railroad memorabilia stacked in crates and pallets up to the ceiling.  We kind of walked through some of it but as there were thousands and thousands of items and the tour was an hour and a half we didn’t spend a lot of time looking at it.  Unbelievably this incredible museum is free.  

After we got out of the museum the sun was shining down on a beautiful warm and sunny day.  As the museum was only a short walk from our boat we walked down the river pathway.  Once on board we sat on deck and enjoyed a very pleasant couple of hours just enjoying the sun and watching the boats cruising up and down the river.  A cold beer and a snack was perfect. 

Topping things off of a perfect day Jos and Patrick just arrived back with more refreshments and supper. Good thing as I had finished the beer.

Agnes and I had a great day visiting the British Rail Museum in York today, and had a very enjoyable afternoon sitting on the deck enjoying the warm sun. 

The British Rail Museum here in York is totally unbelievable.  The locomotive gallery has some of the most famous locomotives in history.  Several have cut away sections so you can see how they engines worked.  The range of locomotives range from the very earliest engines some of which were employed in mines to the most modern high speed streamliners.  They have the Mallard which is a streamlined steam engine and holds the world’s record as the fastest steam locomotive at 128 mph (205 km/h).  You can walk up and touch it!  They have the Duchess of Hamilton which is considered to be one of the most beautiful engines ever built.  In the gallery of trains they have the royal trains as used by King Edward, Queen Victoria, and Queen Elizabeth.  They have a layout on the floor of where everyone was supposed to stand when the royal train pulled up and the queen was about to disembark.  From the upstairs gallery you can watch the workmen in the restoration shop or go outside and watch trains pulling into or leaving the York railroad station.  They have a complete gallery which is dedicated to the Flying Scotsman. This train reduced the travel time between Edinburgh to London from 16 hours to 7 hours.  It introduced dining cars, sleeping cars and turned what was a horrid journey to be endured into a luxury experience.   The warehouse is a huge collection of railroad memorabilia stacked in crates and pallets up to the ceiling.  We kind of walked through some of it but as there were thousands and thousands of items and the tour was an hour and a half we didn’t spend a lot of time looking at it.  Unbelievably this incredible museum is free. 

After we got out of the museum the sun was shining down on a beautiful warm and sunny day.  As the museum was only a short walk from our boat we walked down the river pathway.  Once on board we sat on deck and enjoyed a very pleasant couple of hours just enjoying the sun and watching the boats cruising up and down the river.  A cold beer and a snack was perfect.

Topping things off of a perfect day Jos and Patrick just arrived back with more refreshments and supper. Good thing as I had finished the beer.

Happy Canada Day!

Terry