September 24, 2018 Reims to Louppy-sur-Loison

Today was the exact opposite of yesterday.  While it wasn’t scorching hot it was sunny with broken cloud and instead of a howling head wind, the wind was hardly noticeable even late in the day.  The day was a bit longer but it seemed shorter as the conditions were so nice.

We left the hotel and were on the road at 8:30 and after a number of lefts and rights we were on a beautiful paved canal path which took us out of the city.  It was a great ride.  The wind storm yesterday had covered the path with leaves and broken branches but unlike riding canal paths in Phoenix there are no thorns and the maple branches crunch under your wheels.

From the canal path we turned down what I thought was going to be a busy main road. However it turned out that while it was a main road there was hardly any traffic.  This road was almost perfectly straight and about 17 kms long.  It went by extremely quickly as I was riding Kens wheel.  Along the road we stopped and visited a cemetery which contained the soldiers of a Polish division which had fought with the French army. 

From there we turned north through a whole series of little tiny roads.  They were great as there was no traffic to speak of with lots of little climbs a few bigger climbs and lots of lefts and rights.  It was just a blast.  By the time we got to the 79 km mark we had reached the little village of Grandpre where we found a grocery store and we ate a sandwich in the local church yard.  This was the furthest we have gotten by noon.  I was pretty pleased with our progress.

After lunch we had the big climb of the day which was about 150 meters and about 3 kms long.  From there it wasn’t far to the highlight of the day which was our visit to the American Meuse-Argonne Cemetery and Memorial.  It is the largest American cemetery and memorial in all of Europe.  It covers 130 acres and has over 15,000 American dead (including unknown soldiers). It honors those killed in the last two months of the war when the American divisions fought along a 21 km section of the western front.   It is totally amazing. The grounds are immaculately groomed and perfectly tended. The chapel is a magnificent structure. The visitor’s center pays homage to the Gold Star wives and parents who visited lost loved ones in the war and covers the American roll in the Meuse-Argonne offensive.  Yesterday was a candle homage ceremony and every grave had a candle placed on the cross.  While the ceremony was pretty much rained and blown out there were still a few candles burning in their little lamp.  It was a very touching place. I felt so sad for such a terrible waste.  

We were only 25 kms from our home for the next few days so the three of us pedalled on.  We arrived only a few moments before Agnes and the van that we had seen at the cemetery.  It is an unbelievably beautiful home. Agnes, Betsy and Sally had stopped and purchased food for tonight’s supper so we had a great feast around this huge dining room table.  We are here for two nights as tomorrow we are off to see Verdun.

We covered 126 kms and had a total climb of 726 meters. What a great day. 

Terry hot biker

September 23, 2018 Saint Quentin to Reims

A totally unbelievable day but not in a really good way.  The ride was 107.8 with a climb of 710 meters.  This morning it was dark gray and threatening rain as we ate breakfast and loaded the van, however as soon as we got on the bikes the down pour started.   The hotel was on the very north end of Saint Quentin and we had to ride all the way across a very busy city.  Fortunately it was a Sunday and there was very little traffic.

As we go to the south side of Saint Quentin we came to the French Monument to the French Soldiers lost in the battles of the Somme.  It is a very large gate type of monument with a tableau across the top. It is set in a very pretty park along the river.  As it was totally pouring rain we only stopped for a few moments to read the inscriptions and take a few pictures.

Once we were on the road the rain persisted for several kms before it gave way to a little drizzle and finally stopping, however as the rain stopped the wind out of the south picked up and I mean picked up.  The only breaks from the wind were as a person went into a group of trees.   As the day wore on the wind shifted from the south to the south west which meant that on some of the jogs you had a quartering head wind followed by a quartering tail wind.  The tail winds were great but the head winds were so strong that even in the lowest gear a person could hardly make 12 kms/hr.  

All the wind from the day had dried me off and even my shoes were pretty close to dry.   At the 85 kms mark we turned on to a canal path which was really great as we were out of the wind most of the time and the tail wind was blowing down the canal.  It was looking like we were going to be blown straight into Reims.  Unfortunately this was not to be.  At the 95 kms point the canal path went from paved to a grassy trail.  The Garmin showed 4.5 kms of unpaved trail.  Then the rain started again light at first and as we rode down the trail it got slipperier and slipperier.  I spun out and went down in the grass.  Fortunately I was going slow and the grass broke my fall.  About 2 kms down the trail the rain turned into a lashing downpour with a terrible howling wind.  We came to a fork were you could go down this muddy road beside a field or continue down the canal path. I choose the muddy road.  Juerg and Ken followed me but Juerg went down in the muddy road and they turned back to the canal path.  I pressed on however the wind and rain were coming so hard I could only make a few kms an hour.  I took forever to reach the cross road where we turned to enter Reims.  By now I am totally soaked. My shoes are filled to overflowing and the rain has run down my neck and filled the sleeves of my rain coat.   

As I rode down the road to enter Reims the rain started to let up.  The wind was still just howling and at this point a terrible cross wind.   As I passed a cross street a black plastic bag whipped up and covered my face. I was totally blinded.  I could not get it off as the wind had it plastered to my face.  I was in the middle of traffic and jammed on the brakes hopping not to get hit.  I got a foot down and ripped the bag off my face.  This was maybe the scariest thing which as ever happened to me.  

A few minutes later I rolled down the street to where the hotel is.  The van was parked right in front of the hotel so I knew I was in the right place.  Juerg and Ken showed up about 6 minutes later.  Earnie came in about an hour after that.  I don’t think he had a very good day as he seemed pretty upset at supper.  

We walked past the Reims cathedral on our way to supper.  Agnes and the ladies visit it today.  I stuck my head in for a quick look.  It is magnificent.  All of the French kings were crowned in this cathedral.  It dates back to 400 AD. It was heavily damaged during the war but has been totally rebuilt.  

Tomorrow is a 125 kms day fortunately the rain is done and the wind has shifted to the north but will still be a quartering head wind. 

Terry hot biker

September 22, 2018 Lille to Saint Quentin

This morning was totally gray when we started loading luggage at 8:15 and when we got on our bikes the gray had turned to a light drizzle.  Not heavy enough that you want to stop and put on the rain coat but heavy enough that it makes the pavement wet and you know that if it doesn’t stop you are going to be soaked and cold.   Fortunately it stopped inside of the first 15 minutes of the ride.  However it had been raining much harder as the pavement was soaked and there were puddles of water in the pot holes. 

The ride out of Lille was amazingly easy as the route took us down a straight road which had a bike lane and there was almost no traffic.  A Saturday morning at 8:30, where was the rush hour traffic.  By time we were out of town even the roads were dry. 

Earnie was with us and so there were four of us together rather than the usual three.  The road beyond Lille was much busier and the bike lane came and went and there were a lot of traffic circles.  In a car you have to watch but on a bike some of them are downright scary. It wasn’t until we managed to work our way past the big freeway that traffic thinned out. 

At about the 30 kms mark we turned down a canal path which was packed limestone.  The ride along it was stunning.  The sun managed to break through although only briefly and was reflecting of the canal.  There were a few fishermen with great long poles out trying their luck.  I wonder what they catch as the water looked pretty greenish.   Unfortunately the canal path was only about 10 kms and then back to the highway.

Before we knew it is lunch time and we were in Cambria so we stopped at a boulangerie where we got these huge chicken sandwiches.  We were right in the middle of the old town square and it was crowded with shoppers.  The wind had been forecast for 30 kms out of the south and while it had not been blowing it was starting to pick up so we hurried along.  

With only 40 kms to go there was no real hurray as it was only 12:25 when we left lunch however all of the hills were yet to climb and the wind was picking up.  Ken and Juerg dropped me and try as I might I could not ride them down (after I pulled them for the first 50 kms).  It wasn’t until we got to the American monument at Bellicourt Woods when Ken stopped did I catch them.  

The American Monument to the American soldiers who fought at Bellicourt Woods were the first to break through the Hindenburg line in the fall of 1918.  While Germany was pretty much finished by then their action cannot be diminished.  It is a perfectly set monument at the top of a local rise with great views of the battle field below. 

The last 15 kms into Saint Quentin were straight into the wind and thankfully downhill.  The Garmin registered 106 kms and 628 meters of climb to day. This corresponds to the route forecast of 105.92 and 498 meters. 

Tomorrow is forecast for nothing but rain all day with winds out of the south west.  We are heading south so it should be a pretty fun day.

Terry  

September 21, 2018 Touring the Somme Battle Field

Today was a rest day in Lille so we took a driving tour of the Somme Battle fields.  Ken agreed to give Agnes a day off and drive the van.  The parking expired at 9:00 AM so we were at the van and ready to go. 

The first order of business was to drive down to the Thiepval Memorial to the Missing.   This memorial was constructed to honor the British and French soldiers who were missing in action on the Somme battle fields.  The memorial included a very interesting museum which brought to life through a series of murals the live in the Somme.  It started with the initial euphonium that the war would be over by Christmas to the grief and despair of the battle.  The Somme was the worst day in British military history with 19,240 killed and 57,470 casualties.   The monument is a huge brick structure which is 140 feet high and sits on top of a hill.  When we got there the wind was just howling.  It was screaming through the huge arch ways. Some of the wreaths were blowing off into the grass field.

There is a cemetery or marker on almost every corner.  Stopping to look at everyone would take a life time. So we drove past a lot of them but the Welsh Tower monument caught our eye so we stopped.  The regiment was having a ceremony so we watched for a while.

From there we drove over to see the Newfoundland Memorial at Beaumont-Hamel. It is set on the site of the Newfoundland action in the Somme and covers 47 hectares.  In this action almost all of the Newfoundland regiment was killed.  The monument includes a visitors center which recreates a typical  1915 Newfoundland home, a large parcel of the 47 hectares which are still in the same condition as it was in 1918 and the monument which is a large caribou.  It is a very striking monument. The caribou is a well know symbol of Newfoundland.

From there we headed over to the Lochnagar Crater. It was created when a tunnel which had been dug under the German trench and packed with 45,000 pounds of explosives was set off.  This was the kick of the infantry charge of the first battle of the Somme.  The crater is at least 250 feet in diameter and 75 feet deep.  It is a really deep hole.  The perimeter of the crater has a board walk around it and every board has a brass plaque to a soldier who was on the Somme.

What tour would be complete without a  trip to the boulangerie and that was the next stop on the tour.  The blue cheese and ham sandwiches were great. 

The last stop on the driving tour was the Fricourt German Military Cemetery.  It is a very stark contrast to the Commonwealth cemeteries which have large well-manicured lawns and grounds and individual grave markers. In the German cemetery there are four graves per marker.  Two side by side in the front and two in the rear.  Name, rank, and date of death are given.  It is certainly a much different perspective on the war memorial. 

Tomorrow we are off to Saint Quentin.  It is a 105 kms day with 458 meters of climb, however there is a very nasty wind out of the south forecast and I am not looking forward to a full day of struggling into the wind.

Terry hot biker

September 20, 2018 Tour of Artois Battle Field Tour

Today was a tour day out of our Airbnb apartment in Lille.  The parking on the van ran out at 9:00 Am this morning so we were all out on the street and in the van by 9:00 Am.   It was a 40 kms drive down to Arras this morning.  Ken had volunteered to give Agnes a break from driving so he was the wheelman and I was the navigator.  I had selected a couple of must see sites to visit and I entered them into the Garmin and we were off.

The first was the Albain St-Nazaire French Military Cemetery.  This is the largest cemetery and the national French military cemetery.  It is situated on a very commanding hill just north of Arras. There are 40,000 French soldiers who were killed in the battle of Artois buried in this cemetery.  It consists of a huge Basilica, which was unfortunately closed for restoration work and an obelisk.  The stone work on the basilica and obelisk are unbelievably detailed and beautiful.   Inside the obelisk are some coffins which represent the Unknown Soldier and a museum which details the battles surrounding Arras.  There is also a huge more modern structure which houses 580,000 names of those killed on both sides during the four years of war in the Calais area.  It was a very touching site.

The next stop was Vimy Ridge and the very famous Canadian monument.  I don’t think there is a more famous monument which represents the entire war more than the Vimy Ridge monument with its two spires.  As it is located on a high ridge it can be seen for a very long way off.   The group headed straight for the monument and we were awed by it.  The figures on the monument are so compelling.   After touring the monument we walked over to the visitor’s center and walked through the trench recreation.  There is a huge area surrounding the monument and the visitor center which has been left as it was in 1918.  The craters and battle area are now covered in grass and trees but leave no doubt in your mind as to how terrible it must have been.  There are lots of signs warning of unexploded munitions. 

Everyone agreed it was past lunch so off to find lunch.  After a sandwich from the local boulangerie we tried to find the Arras monument but were unable to locate it.  So it was time to head back to Lille.  Everyone wanted to have a little rest time on the day off.  I certainly wasn’t going to argue.

Terry hot biker

September 19 2018 Neiuwpoort Belgium to Lille France

Yesterday’s tremendous tail wind was today’s head wind.  The total ride was 85kms with a climb of 155 meters. 

Ken Juerg and I headed out this morning and headed south east along the road which we rode into Neuiwpoort on before turning south on a bicycle path.  The bike path was an old rail bed which leads inland from the port.  As we were riding through open fields we were exposed to the south wind.  This path continued on for 10 kms before we took a side road through a village where we rode past the Dodegang trenches.  These trenches are a recreation of the trenches which were occupied long the cannel.  There were not open until 10:00 AM so we rode on after taking a few pictures. 

By now we are headed almost straight south and the wind which is a steady 20 km is coming out of the SSE.  Fortunately we turned onto a bike path which was alongside of a cannel which had a lot of trees on either side so we were sheltered from the wind.  Riding along the cannel was beautiful as the sun filtered down through the trees and dappled the path and cannel.  Every so often we would come across a monument so we would stop and take a picture. 

One of the stops was the Essex Farm Cemetery which was the field hospital where John McCrea wrote in Flanders Fields.  This was a pretty special stop as this is a poem we learned in grade school and is very often repeated.  The three of us were also wearing our poppy jerseys which made a splendid site. 

We rode our bikes to the Mannheim Gate which has 50,000 names inscribed of British soldiers who were missing in Flanders.  It was tremendously impressive monument.  From there we rode into the center of the town of Flanders where we had lunch.  Agnes, Betsy and Sally were having lunch opposite the Flanders Field Museum which is in a huge cathedral.  They had spent most of the morning there and were intending on spending the afternoon in the museum.  Juerg decided to go the museum but Ken and I were keen to ride on as the wind was steadily increasing. 

By 2:30 Pm Ken and I were in Lille and as the Airbnb host was meeting us at 3:30 we sat down in a sidewalk café and had a beer.  Sitting enjoying the sunny day and a beer was just great.

Terry